[Bee Pee]

See link below to Babybmw site here in the UK, towards end of 5th page.

F8x lower control arms installed ok on an m135i (hatchback version of m235i)
http://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtop...69818&start=60

[Bee Pee]

F8x LCAs installed on my m135i by Birds in the UK.

Before - NSF


After - NSF


Before - NSF


After - NSF


Before - OSF


After - OSF


Tracking adjusted but ran out of time to get L & R camber changes checked but it's circa an extra 1 deg negative. Will get alignment re checked in a couple weeks.

Stance looks even better IMHO with a v slight extra poke ie wheel faces more flush with wheel arch. No rubbing even with 8" wide et34mm wheels.

Initial feel is good but only driven round the 'burbs so looking fwd to my blat up to N Wales this w/end.

BP

UPDATE :-

Managed to sneak out 1st thing to meet up with Cayman S driving chum for a fast thrash round evo triangle.



Hence grubby car. One slight-ish issue I have is my wider/et34mm front wheels are positioned slight further forward in relation to wheel arch. On v fast bumps it rubs at about the one o clock position in the photo below. Bit of a dilemma as I really like the grippier front end and steering feel.



As a comparison, front wheel position in wheel arch pre F8x LCA install

[Bee Pee]

Summary of what these LCAs do

- added about 1 deg of neg camber
- moved the top of the wheel out a bit (reducing clearance to the bodywork)
- moved the wheel about 1/2" /13mm further forward in the wheel arch, adding some caster and more steering feel (and further reducing clearance to the wheel arch)

My car's other chassis mods means it doesn't suffer from understeer and already has crisp turn-in. My wider, more aggressive offset front wheels mean I'm on the limit as far as contact between tyre and wheel arch.

This OE upgrade (on a stock chassis or for someone considering an alternative to Sway bars) will:-
- be v effective in reducing understeer and making turn in sharper;
- negates the need for front spacers (front track is o/a 1"/25mm wider);
- reduce wear on outer shoulder PSS;
- adds more feel to EPS in both modes.

In summary, whilst I'm in a dilemma due to gains on my setup being marginal and high compression contact with my current wheels, this OE upgrade is very worthwhile.

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Summary of what these LCAs do

- added about 1 deg of neg camber
- moved the top of the wheel out a bit (reducing clearance to the bodywork)
- moved the wheel about 1/2" /13mm further forward in the wheel arch, adding some caster and more steering feel (and further reducing clearance to the wheel arch)

My car's other chassis mods means it doesn't suffer from understeer and already has crisp turn-in. My wider, more aggressive offset front wheels mean I'm on the limit as far as contact between tyre and wheel arch.

This OE upgrade (on a stock chassis or for someone considering an alternative to Sway bars) will:-
- be v effective in reducing understeer and making turn in sharper;
- negates the need for front spacers (front track is o/a 1"/25mm wider);
- reduce wear on outer shoulder PSS;
- adds more feel to EPS in both modes.

In summary, whilst I'm in a dilemma due to gains on my setup being marginal and high compression contact with my current wheels, this OE upgrade is very worthwhile.

So you are saying... each wheel will stick about 12mm out so same as 12mm spacer in the front ?

Also is the LCA switch a DIY or do you need special tools to do it ?

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by pikcachu

So you are saying... each wheel will stick about 12mm out so same as 12mm spacer in the front ?

Also is the LCA switch a DIY or do you need special tools to do it ?

Yes re spacer question.

No special tools and it's a DIY although alignment is a must.


Spot the shiny new bit.....


Car at Hounslow Tyres in their Hunter Hawk Eye wheel alignment rig:-




Results :-


-2deg camber and large castor angle. Need to figure out a tension strut/arm that would reduce the castor (and perhaps camber a little too)

[pikcachu]

Nice

Any idea of torque specs for the Lca bolts ?

How is that you got .5 less negative camber on the right wheel than the left after the alignment?

[Bee Pee]

Pika,

The difference in camber is only 16secs ie 0.25deg and is well within spec.

Lower control arms to knuckle 122 ftlb (165 Nm)
Lower control arms to subframe 74 ftlb (100 Nm)

BP

[pikcachu]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Pika,

The difference in camber is only 16secs ie 0.25deg and is well within spec.

Lower control arms to knuckle 122 ftlb (165 Nm)
Lower control arms to subframe 74 ftlb (100 Nm)

BP

Where do you get the torque data?

[Sh.iva]

Any news about 17" wheel clearance?

[ketema]

Would there be any value to upgrading to these LCAs if camber plates were installed?

[rwalker]

benefit is less loss of camber in turns owing to the stiffer bushing

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

F8x LCAs installed on my m135i by Birds in the UK.


Hence grubby car. One slight-ish issue I have is my wider/et34mm front wheels are positioned slight further forward in relation to wheel arch. On v fast bumps it rubs at about the one o clock position in the photo below. Bit of a dilemma as I really like the grippier front end and steering feel.



As a comparison, front wheel position in wheel arch pre F8x LCA install

your front end looks lower with the LCAs installed... are there other modifications?

my car with LCAs looks lower now than pre-LCAs, is why I ask...

[Bee Pee]

Yes I would say <1/2" extra drop over the 1" drop from H&R sport springs.

[StealYourFace]

Can these work on an e90?

[Bee Pee]

Yes I did the e9x m3 TS/LCA upgrade on my e91 335i

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

Can these work on an e90?

on the E90, you'd use the LCA and tension arms from the e90 M3; it's a very popular mod

[StealYourFace]

Originally Posted by rwalker

on the E90, you'd use the LCA and tension arms from the e90 M3; it's a very popular mod

I'm aware, I've been running them for 100,000 miles or more. Actually on my second set as of recently (damned potholes wreck the ball joint in the arm).

My reason for the post is that I am wondering if I can have more neg camber going with either the F30 or F80 arm, allowing me to avoid camber plates. My car is maxed at -1.2 on both sides of the front, and that was with me pulling the bottom of the wheel out as hard as I could while my friend (mechanic working the alignment rack) lined it up.

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

I'm aware, I've been running them for 100,000 miles or more. Actually on my second set as of recently (damned potholes wreck the ball joint in the arm).

My reason for the post is that I am wondering if I can have more neg camber going with either the F30 or F80 arm, allowing me to avoid camber plates. My car is maxed at -1.2 on both sides of the front, and that was with me pulling the bottom of the wheel out as hard as I could while my friend (mechanic working the alignment rack) lined it up.

Ah, I see.

You've loosened your strut hat mounting nuts and slid the tops all the way in, too?

[pikcachu]

Anybody can take a picture of how you install the LCA with the xenon headlight rod?

looks like the cable for the sensor is not long enough when using the M4 bracket for the sensor

[Bee Pee]

Pika,

The m4 rod should have come with 2 bolts and 2 m6 nuts which secures both ends of the rod. Remove one of the bolts (ball shaped end) and push the ball end into the socket on the lower end of your existing rod. Insert into the bracket on drivers m3 LCA and secure with m6 nut.

Hope this helps.

BP

[Pparana]

Originally Posted by rwalker

your front end looks lower with the LCAs installed... are there other modifications?

my car with LCAs looks lower now than pre-LCAs, is why I ask...

Rwalker,

do you think camber plates would solve the rub?

Reason I ask, I have camber plates, with adjustable Castor and want to mount the lca's for the bushings.

I would like to run 18x8.5 ET 38, with a 255 35 tire square setup for track, and just stock tires for street.



Thanks again!

[rwalker]

Originally Posted by Pparana

rwalker,

do you think camber plates would solve the rub?

Reason I ask, I have camber plates, with adjustable Castor and want to mount the lca's for the bushings.

I would like to run 18x8.5 ET 38, with a 255 35 tire square setup for track, and just stock tires for street.

Here's a brief history of my front end. I run GC camber plates.

Stock LCAs, -2.5deg camber:
Street: 18x8.5et37 255/35r18 Michelin PSS, zero clearance issues
Track: 18x9et36 255/35r18 Toyo Proxes R888, minor fender rubbing on track

Once I got F8x LCAs, my street setup had a slight rub in the front fender liner with half a turn of lock, plus a little fender interference at the lip. Also: I bent my front right fender a bit at autocross (track setup). I had to make a couple of changes.

Today's setup, with F8x LCAs, -3.5deg front camber, and rolled fenders:
Street: 18x8.5et42 255/35r18 Michelin PSS, zero clearance issues
Track: 18x8.5et36 255/35r18 Toyo Proxes R88, zero clearance issues

To roll my fenders, I flattened the inner lip flush with the inside of the fender about 3/4 of the way from front to rear. This gives another 2-5mm of clearance (w00t!) while retaining the original outer fender shape.

To do so, I wrapped an 8" long block of 1x2" wood in a soft shop towel (blue ones from Costco). I then clamped the block to the outside of the flat bit of the fender with a couple of plastic helper clamps. Then, I took a large C-clamp and squeezed the lip flat to the inside of the fender, using the block to distribute pressure on the outside. I worked bit by bit, starting from the front of the fender, moving very slowly towards the rear, checking my work every squeeze or two. As I worked along, I also moved the block to keep the squeeze point close to the middle of the block.

You don't want to completely flatten the lip all in one go. Doing so will introduce creases. Flatten it a bit in one spot, the next spot, etc. until you've covered the area you're planning to flatten. Then, rewind completely and start again at the front to get a bit more flattening. It's sort of like multiple coats of paint. I probably went over each fender 4 times.

Also note: the transition from being flat to the curved original profile needs to be gradual to prevent creases from popping up on the outside. I think I used about 2" to transition from flat back to original curved.