[CatchF22DirtyF30]

Tossed on the Mcarkit, type C carbon fiber front lip this weekend. Will be posting review and Install video on youtube this Wednesday at 5pm CST.

Must say it fits like a glove, very impressive with Amazon on this one. Costs $200 less than the other site that showed the same product photos.

The shipping did take a month, that was a downside. They also did not capture the payment until the item shipped a few weeks after the initial purchase. That was frustrating as well, but a minor inconvenience.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

Anyone have a guess or real experience on how long the dinan springs and other pieces would be to install? Dinan's website says over 7 labor hours but I can't imagine it being more than 4.

I've had the Dinan springs for about 4 years now. I've installed/removed/installed the springs multiple times for various reasons. Working with just floor jacks and jack stands, the fronts take me about 45 minutes per side. The rears take about 15-20 minutes per side. Removing the rear shocks adds 5 minutes.

For what you'll spend on an install, you could buy some really nice tools, do it yourself, and still save money. The only specialty tools I needed to get was a spindle spreader socket $12, E-torx bits ($20), and a pass through socket kit $45 (https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-62...67913922&psc=1).

I also upgraded my spring compressor to this which makes removing the spring MUCH easier and safer. Not even the same ball game with this thing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV6L57D...&pd_rd_plhdr=t

A couple install points:

1) Disconnecting the headlight level switches from the front and rear control arms is a bit of a pain. Be careful.

2) When doing either axle, make sure both sides are off the ground to take tension off the sway bar.

3) On front, make sure to loosen the front lower control arm bolt to take tension off the control arm and to make removal of the strut assembly easier.

4) When tightening back up the control arm bolts (front and rear), make sure to take a floor jack and jack up the suspension a few inches and then torque the bolts. You don't want to torque the bolts when they're in their lowest position. You want them as close to static ride height as possible when you torque them.


I'm no longer running the Dinans in the back, only the fronts. I did not like how low the car was in the rear, even with the Dinan spacers. It does comprise ride quality and handling on bumpy turns. I'm currently running the Dinans in the front with the OEM shocks and the OEM springs and Bilstein Damptronics in the rear. The ride is amazing. The wheel gap is 1.5 fingers in the front and 2 fingers in the rear. I always felt the rear of the car was underdamped. The Bilsteins fix that. I did have Bilsteins in the front, but they were loud, rough, clunked, and added 1/4"-3/8" in ride height due the taller spring perch. I returned them to FCP Euro for a full refund. I don't miss them.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

I've had the Dinan springs for about 4 years now. I've installed/removed/installed the springs multiple times for various reasons. Working with just floor jacks and jack stands, the fronts take me about 45 minutes per side. The rears take about 15-20 minutes per side. Removing the rear shocks adds 5 minutes.

For what you'll spend on an install, you could buy some really nice tools, do it yourself, and still save money. The only specialty tools I needed to get was a spindle spreader socket $12, E-torx bits ($20), and a pass through socket kit $45 (https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-62...67913922&psc=1).

I also upgraded my spring compressor to this which makes removing the spring MUCH easier and safer. Not even the same ball game with this thing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV6L57D...&pd_rd_plhdr=t

A couple install points:

1) Disconnecting the headlight level switches from the front and rear control arms is a bit of a pain. Be careful.

2) When doing either axle, make sure both sides are off the ground to take tension off the sway bar.

3) On front, make sure to loosen the front lower control arm bolt to take tension off the control arm and to make removal of the strut assembly easier.

4) When tightening back up the control arm bolts (front and rear), make sure to take a floor jack and jack up the suspension a few inches and then torque the bolts. You don't want to torque the bolts when they're in their lowest position. You want them as close to static ride height as possible when you torque them.


I'm no longer running the Dinans in the back, only the fronts. I did not like how low the car was in the rear, even with the Dinan spacers. It does comprise ride quality and handling on bumpy turns. I'm currently running the Dinans in the front with the OEM shocks and the OEM springs and Bilstein Damptronics in the rear. The ride is amazing. The wheel gap is 1.5 fingers in the front and 2 fingers in the rear. I always felt the rear of the car was underdamped. The Bilsteins fix that. I did have Bilsteins in the front, but they were loud, rough, clunked, and added 1/4"-3/8" in ride height due the taller spring perch. I returned them to FCP Euro for a full refund. I don't miss them.

I recall you giving me a rundown on your Dinan fronts and Bilsteins in the rear before. Good to know in case I have the same experience you did with the Dinans in the rear. I will give it a shot and see what happens.

The details on the install are really helpful. Thank you!

[oremag2014]

wrapped the roof with CF today

[GoldfishRT]

So I've been chasing down that intermittent oil pressure warning for months now. We replaced the regulating valve and pressure sensor, ran a pressure test, everything seemed like it should be okay.

Finally we decided to drop the oil pan. Somehow a sticker or some other crap was in the oil pickup. The only thing I can think of was it was left on something when the timing chain guides were replaced under warranty. I think I saw a post somewhere where this happened to somebody else.

[Kernel Kurtz]

Ouch!

[JMcLellan]

I recently ordered some exterior pieces for my car from my local BMW dealer. A service advisor called me to give a price on having the pieces installed (rear diffuser, front splitter, and carbon fiber spoiler). The quoted price was $2700 for installation.....ridiculous. On the BMW website when you select your local dealer and then add parts to your cart and then add "expert installation" the online tool quoted $210 to install the diffuser. I figured for all 3 pieces they might say like a $1000. The service advisor quoted me $1600 for just the diffuser. This is the 2nd time the online tool pricing and the service advisor quotes were way off-- happened to me when I was getting my LSD.

Anyways, I opted to not buy the spoiler but picked up the splitter and diffuser and will be tackling those myself.

[Kernel Kurtz]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

A service advisor called me to give a price on having the pieces installed (rear diffuser, front splitter, and carbon fiber spoiler). The quoted price was $2700 for installation.....ridiculous.

That is the most absurd thing I have seen or heard in a long time. I did my diffuser myself. Took about an hour (though it would take longer if you have to remove the bumper). Also did a trunk lip spoiler myself. Took a couple hours, most of which was removing the old tape which was tedious. Plenty of Youtube videos explaining both.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by Kernel Kurtz

That is the most absurd thing I have seen or heard in a long time. I did my diffuser myself. Took about an hour (though it would take longer if you have to remove the bumper). Also did a trunk lip spoiler myself. Took a couple hours, most of which was removing the old tape which was tedious. Plenty of Youtube videos explaining both.

I just felt like they didn't want to deal with what I was asking unless they were making tons of profit on it. It's weird because whenever I go there for regular service the advisors are all really cool. Whatever.

Good to hear the diffuser is easy. What spoiler did you put on your car?

[Kernel Kurtz]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

Good to hear the diffuser is easy. What spoiler did you put on your car?

MP style from here;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005418385915.html

Fits perfectly. Gloss black is fine on my BSM car. Matches the diffuser, which is also gloss black Chinesium. Will snap some pics when I get a chance.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by Kernel Kurtz

MP style from here;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005418385915.html

Fits perfectly. Gloss black is fine on my BSM car. Matches the diffuser, which is also gloss black Chinesium. Will snap some pics when I get a chance.

Sweet! Would love to see some pics. I opted out of the carbon fiber as I wanted to color match to BMS. This could work.

[freakystyly]

You could go with a matte finished diffuser and get it professionally color matched to BSM.... the plain gloss might look a bit off. It likely wouldn't be noticeable to others though.

Kind of like my wing mirror covers which are "white" don't quite match the alpine white tint which has a tiny bit of yellow pee mixed in lol.

[Kernel Kurtz]

Originally Posted by JMcLellan

Sweet! Would love to see some pics. I opted out of the carbon fiber as I wanted to color match to BMS. This could work.

Car is kind of dusty right now, needs a rinse.

[Kernel Kurtz]

Originally Posted by freakystyly

You could go with a matte finished diffuser and get it professionally color matched to BSM.... the plain gloss might look a bit off. It likely wouldn't be noticeable to others though.

Kind of like my wing mirror covers which are "white" don't quite match the alpine white tint which has a tiny bit of yellow pee mixed in lol.

My mirror caps are also gloss black M-style ones. And the original diffuser was gray. I'm happy enough with the mix of gloss and BSM, though certainly nothing stopping anyone from painting them.

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by Kernel Kurtz

Car is kind of dusty right now, needs a rinse.

All of that works and looks good. Thank you for snapping pics and sharing!

[JMcLellan]

Originally Posted by freakystyly

You could go with a matte finished diffuser and get it professionally color matched to BSM.... the plain gloss might look a bit off. It likely wouldn't be noticeable to others though.

Kind of like my wing mirror covers which are "white" don't quite match the alpine white tint which has a tiny bit of yellow pee mixed in lol.

I'm certain the diffuser I picked up is matte black. I should probably go open the box and look, huh?

I had some color matched BSM mirror caps but the clips were very brittle and a couple broke. They started to fall off at the car wash so I switched back to the stock silver ones. Might look at buying some higher quality ones in the future.

[Kernel Kurtz]

I think matte black would look fine also. I have matte black grills that match the lower oil cooler, etc grills. I personally prefer any black over the original gray. You can see the original diffuser (and spoiler) in my pics here;

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...0&postcount=39

[jzeiler4]

Had Gall Bladder surgery last Tuesday so today was the first outing in the vert and low and behold another check engine light. I get home and it is a P0238 boost sensor bad. Pop the hood (and I just checked two days ago) and there is another nest in well of the oil filler cap. Popped the cover off and this is what I find. At least it was just one wire and an easy find and fix (unlike the last one, see #5223). I have got to get that little bugger for sure this time. Stuffed a paper tower rolled up and soaked in Cayenne pepper around the filler cap.

[Kernel Kurtz]

After the second time I'd be setting lots of traps. Poison too if it is in a safe area for pets and children.

[Resoelg]

Mother effing rodents!!!

Hey, I have to give a shout out to the guy who started this post many moons ago. He no longer has his m235 but bits of it live on in my 240. He's local to me, good guy and my hats off to him for what he started on this forum 5000+ post later.
Cheers brother.

[JMcLellan]

I installed the matte black M performance rear diffuser. This is the part my local dealer quoted me $1600 to install as they claimed the whole rear bumper had to come off. This took me about 20 minutes to complete. I really like the look and the color against the BSM. Might need to get some proper exhaust tips now.

Here is a pic of the stock one and then a couple of the new piece....

[Kernel Kurtz]

Looks good.