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		<title>BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - DIY Guides</title>
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			<title>BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - DIY Guides</title>
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			<title>DIY: No comms from DME -*Car does run*- MSD81</title>
			<link>https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2239189&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 Apr 2026 22:55:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So this is a weird one and any advice is appreciated but to begin with I have a 2008 335i e93 with the N54 which refuses to communicate with the DME (MSD81).  
 
I’ve checked the wires for power and it’s getting the voltages it needs and when scanning other modules they also throw code for not...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So this is a weird one and any advice is appreciated but to begin with I have a 2008 335i e93 with the N54 which refuses to communicate with the DME (MSD81). <br />
<br />
I’ve checked the wires for power and it’s getting the voltages it needs and when scanning other modules they also throw code for not receiving from the DME. <br />
<br />
The ABS/DSC module does not communicate either but I’m less concerned about that considering I did get it to scan for a minute after replacing some fuses, then it shut back down and I can’t scan it again. <br />
<br />
DME never came out of it though it stayed no comms. What’s weirder is the car runs and drives more or less just fine (not to mention I even unplugged the DME to try and start it which no surprise that it didn’t start) it just doesn’t communicate and the fuel pump has high current from what I assume to be a symptom of no comms from the DME. <br />
<br />
I did take the DME out and take it somewhat apart but I’m not sure how to diagnose it, I did find a bit of water corrosion at the bottom but it seems to not have damaged anything from what I can tell. I have a theory maybe it’s causing a short between comms and isn’t being allowed to communicate?<br />
<br />
And yes I double checked all fuses and relays and they all work. I will add that at the same time the ABS module was scannable instead of no comms, my JB4 started working again aswell but I have since removed the JB4 entirely.<br />
<br />
Any direction on this would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
I will post anything I find pertaining to aswell.</div>


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			<category domain="https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=172">DIY Guides</category>
			<dc:creator>Supatroopa</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2239189</guid>
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			<title>How to remove the Mickey Mouse Flange from hose without dremel or crushing or special tools</title>
			<link>https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2238185&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 Apr 2026 14:25:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Lots of sources call for crushing it or carefully using a dremel to cut it out. I didn't have a dremel and even with my 12' channel locks I couldn't crush it. Additionally I was also doing this on a fresh one since I made the mistake of ordering the hose with it pre-installed and I wanted to use my...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Lots of sources call for crushing it or carefully using a dremel to cut it out. I didn't have a dremel and even with my 12' channel locks I couldn't crush it. Additionally I was also doing this on a fresh one since I made the mistake of ordering the hose with it pre-installed and I wanted to use my aluminum one, crushing fresh plastic is super hard.<br />
<br />
I just happened to stumble on a better solution after 10 or attempts. By working the channel locks around the metal band in 45 degree increments over and over I was slowly loosening it. This is what it looked like about 25 squeezes in:<a href="https://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3945320" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 3945320</a><br />
<br />
After about 50 or so squeezes it was loose enough that it just slid right off, no worrying about bits of plastic going down the hose, no worry about cutting the hose. Overall this was probably the easiest solution as it didn't take a ton of elbow grease, just a lot of persistence.<br />
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			<category domain="https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=172">DIY Guides</category>
			<dc:creator>EnyaEternal</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2238185</guid>
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			<title>milv installation tips</title>
			<link>https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237482&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 14 Apr 2026 22:05:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi thought I would payback some tips. 
I added the 3 stage manifold and milvs to my 2012 328xi n52 e92 manual transmission. The manifold was pretty straight forward. The milvs were the challenge. For the coupe (e92) I was able to get the valve cover off, but no way was it going back on.  
 
Tip #1...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi thought I would payback some tips.<br />
I added the 3 stage manifold and milvs to my 2012 328xi n52 e92 manual transmission. The manifold was pretty straight forward. The milvs were the challenge. For the coupe (e92) I was able to get the valve cover off, but no way was it going back on. <br />
<br />
Tip #1 - Remove the wiper arms and lower cowl. it's super easy. Mark the wiper position. Pull a washer fluid hose, and a few 10mm bolts. I had to pull up the electrical wiring box black rubber gaskets (3 square shapes in ecu box) for clearance. Made the job so simple, and nearly zero risk of rolling gasket. Cover lifted straight up.<br />
I change the milvs without a spring tool, but was prying on stuff and wiggling springs. I bent an intermediate lever bridge that broke when it hit the milv while running. Fortunately I also dislocated a spring arm that I never noticed until test run. I say fortunately because it made me reopen the cover and thats when I noticed that broken bridge floating around before it got sucked into the void of engine death. The new part has omitted that bridge piece altogether. Probably for similar reasons. I used a spring tool to replace the intermediate lever. It made it really easy (after I took the fuel rail out).<br />
<br />
Tip # 2 - If you replace any valve parts, you must look at the stamped number on that individual part and replace with that number (1,2,3,4,5,or 6). It's for micro adjustments at factory. There is no vin relation, or pattern. Each car is unique. Each valve is unique.<br />
<br />
Tip #3 - be meticulously careful under the valve cover. Use a mirror and check everything after, especially that spring arms are seated.<br />
<br />
Tip #4 - get a good torque wrench, I stripped the lower valvetronic motor screw mount. Fortunately I replaced it with the one on the old valve cover.<br />
<br />
Tip #5 - rotate the engine by hand a few rotations to make sure everything is smooth. I might have heard the spring, or seen the bridge hit. And for god sakes, don't leave the wrench on the crankshaft pull. Could you imagine...<br />
<br />
Dont forget to relearn the valvetronic motor (I used ista).<br />
<br />
1st -stock - great car<br />
2nd -3 stage manifold / free bimmer tune - awesome, new found power from the disas.<br />
3rd -milvs, 3 stage manifold / stagefp tune. I dont know if it was the milvs or the stagefp tune, but a significant difference in throttle response and power throughout the rpm range. Very snappy. So far, worth the effort.<br />
<br />
Tom</div>

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			<category domain="https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=172">DIY Guides</category>
			<dc:creator>Drivereye</dc:creator>
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			<title>Cruise indication needle stuck</title>
			<link>https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2235986&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Apr 2026 15:42:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've spent some time searching and it seems like I may have a unique issue. I have a 2012 e91, and the cruise speed indicator has slowly been getting stuck above zero during use, which makes the speed inaccurate for the remainder of the trip. Turning off the car re-zeros the needle and it works...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've spent some time searching and it seems like I may have a unique issue. I have a 2012 e91, and the cruise speed indicator has slowly been getting stuck above zero during use, which makes the speed inaccurate for the remainder of the trip. Turning off the car re-zeros the needle and it works again until I turn off cruise and it attempts to return to zero, at which time it gets stuck on the way down and steadily climbs with each cruise activation until it is off the far side of the gage and then I don't see it until I restart the car. <br />
<br />
Has anyone experienced this issue or seen how this feature works enough to hazard a guess about what the cause may be? I'm pretty handy mechanically and electronically, but haven't gotten any experience coding on a BMW yet. If I do have to replace the cluster to fix the issue do I need to be sure to buy one made for specific cars? It appears from my searching that not all cars were equipped with this feature, but I'm not sure how to tell which is which since the needle is hidden when the cruise control is not engaged.<br />
<br />
Thank you all for the help!</div>

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			<category domain="https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=172">DIY Guides</category>
			<dc:creator>TehBek</dc:creator>
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